Tokugawa
8491 Kalayaan Avenue corner Algier Street, Poblacion, Makati City
Contact: 0917-821-0442
Facebook: www.facebook.com/tokugawamanila
Open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Tuesday to Thursday and Sunday), 11 a.m. to 12 m.n. (Friday and Saturday)
(SPOT.ph) If there’s one distinctive dish that would define Japanese cuisine, it would most likely be sushi. Seafood and rice. It’s such a simple combination, but when done right, could be quite like a five-star experience. It’s easy to find sushi in the city, but if you’re in search for something new and exciting, then Tokugawa might just be it.
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Named after the Edo Period—the historical period that marked the final period of traditional Japan and defined the beginning of modern age—Tokugawa merges the traditional with modern through the restaurant’s food and interiors. Conveniently located in the less crowded side streets of Poblacion, just by the bend from Rockwell, it’s the establishment with a bar station out front and colorful wall art all over.
Also read:
The SPOT.ph Guide to Japanese Food
10 New Japanese Restaurants to Hit Up for Great Sushi, Ramen + More
10 Splurge-Worthy Japanese Spots for Omakase + Kaiseki in Manila
Here’s what to try at Tokugawa, the new Japanese restaurant in Poblacion:
Step inside Tokugawa and you’ll find a cool and casual mix of warm wooden furnishings amidst contemporary art interpretations of iconic images from the said era. Imagine if the Great Wave and Kabuki Warriors were interpreted by Andy Warhol. You’ll find such neon-colored treatment in the restaurant’s bold murals. Just like the interiors, the dishes look like works of art as well.
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Opened just last September, Tokugawa is the latest concept—and the first Japanese one at that—of PYC Foods Corporation, the same group as the ones who manage One World Deli and Pardon My French. Its extensive menu features noodles and rice meals, but you should not miss its selection of sashimi, nigiri, aburi, and signature maki. But before you feast on your Japanese favorites, enjoy munching on the complimentary popped rice that’s presented like a beautiful edible floral bouquet.
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Should you be dining solo, there are seats by the counter with a view of the open kitchen where you can watch the kitchen crew prepare your meal. Or if you’re with a companion or with a group, there’s enough space in this establishment that can accommodate up to 75 diners. There are even a couple of private rooms that you can reserve for special events. Whatever dining situation, you’re in for a great start if you’ll zero in on the sushi selection.
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The Umi Masu (P550) is a failsafe pick. Don’t be fooled by how basic it looks, these generous slices of orange-pink ocean trout would please your palate with its delicate flavor that has no fishy taste. Its buttery and melts in your mouth—can’t get better than that. Perfect with a squeeze of lemon, a dab of wasabi, and soy sauce.
If you care for something stronger, the Spicy Tuna (P280) would wake up your taste buds. It’s a pretty plate of tuna chunks doused in sriracha mayo, garnished with cucumber fan, and topped with fried breadcrumbs and micro-greens. Let its bright red color be a warning of its spice level—it definitely has some heat but it’s quite tolerable, and the flavor of the tuna still shines through.
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There are also sashimi samplers for the purists looking for a little of everything; try the Goten Set (P1250), a combination of five kinds of seafood, which depends on the availability of ingredients. This one had scallop, ebi (prawn), ocean trout, tuna, and tako (octopus)—and it’s almost too pretty to eat! Take time to feast with your eyes first and then tackle it one at a time. Whatever you pick with your chopsticks, you’ll be assured of the premium ingredients and flavors that would transport you to Japan. What’s great about this sampler is that you can even customize it according to your preference.
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The Nigiri Hana (P360), which has five kinds of nigiri, can be tailored to your liking as well, but the ingredients would also depend on its availability. This assortment of tuna, ocean trout, scallop, ebi, and tamago was simply presented in a bamboo platter and garnished with pickled ginger and wasabi. You can hardly see the vinegared rice as the substantial toppings are draped on the rice mounds like curtains. Each gave a delicious mouthful with different flavor profiles with topnotch seafood and fluffy egg.
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A must-not miss, however, is the aburi and the Ebi (P180) is a classic choice. Two pieces of flame-seared prawns dressed with the special Tokugawa homemade sauce that’s sweet, savory, and has that lasting umami. The sauce perfectly complements the mild tasting prawns, and you’ll find yourself finishing the whole serving in a snap.
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Another aburi option that strikes the taste buds is the Unatama (P280), which is seared unagi (eel) and tamago. It’s not everyday that you come across this combination, and you’ll be surprised that it actually works. It has that same umami-filled sauce that enhances the flavor of the grilled eel and soft egg. If you haven’t tried eel before, this would be a good introduction to it.
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If maki is more your thing, you can’t go wrong with the Tokugawa Maki (P680), the restaurant’s signature maki that would give you a party in your mouth with its numerous fillings and toppings. It has anago (salt-water eel), crab stick, shrimp, mango, cream cheese, cucumber, and tobiko (fish roe). The roll is lightly breaded and fried so its crispy exterior provides a good contrast to the soft rice and creamy topping.
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In case you want to sort of cleanse your palate from all the raw fish, something good to snack on is the Salted Edamame (P160). These boiled young soybeans were simply seasoned with salt and are healthy to munch on. The proper way to eat it is to put the pod in your mouth and grip a bean with your teeth before pulling it away. That way, you’ll be such to season the beans with each bite.
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They also shine in the Japanese basics department. Take, for instance, their Ebi Tempura (P480/three pieces, P780/five pieces), or traditional battered fried tiger prawns that come with grated ginger and soy sauce. Tempura is standard in most Japanese restaurants, but not all are created equal. This one has good-sized prawns with the right amount of batter that’s fried to a crisp. When lightly dipped in the soy-ginger sauce, you’ll get the best bite each and every time.
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One item that’s not quite common in many restaurants is the Gindara Teriyaki (P980). It’s a decent portion of grilled gindara fish swimming in a bed of teriyaki sauce and topped with sesame seeds and veggie garnish. The sauce is light and just has a touch of sweetness that is not cloying at all. It permeates into the flaky fish, with its skin keeping most of the flavor in.
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Of course, the crowd favorite Chicken Karaage (P350) is on the menu. Can’t go wrong with these crispy fried chicken pieces that can be eaten as an entrée or as bar chow. Make sure to squeeze a lemon wedge all over it before dipping it in Japanese mayo to elevate the taste. The tangy citrus flavor combined with the rich and creamy mayo makes a lot of difference in this dish.
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Another standout is their Yakitori (P350) sampler of grilled skewers—which include chicken skin, chicken thigh, chicken wing, tsukune (chicken meatball), and tofu. There’s something about having meat-on-sticks that make eating seem more fun, especially if the meat is seasoned well and has that scrumptious charred flavor. This would be best paired with any of libations—Japanese beer, sake cocktails, highballs, wine, and other kinds of liquor.
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One that would be a hit for the ladies or for daytime drinking is the Sakura Spritz (P680). It’s an aromatic concoction of sake, gin, elderflower liqueur, lime juice, egg white foam, and amaranth flower that’s attractively served on a tall glass coated with shredded petals. This pink beverage tastes sweet and floral and it’s very easy to drink.
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A more potent mix would be the Samurai Tea (P620). It’s a strong and somewhat bitter brew of sake, pisco, mixed berries, green tea syrup, rose gin, lime juice, Himalayan salt, and angustura bitters. It’s an elegant drink, especially with the dried lemon slice and Thai basil garnish. Just drink this with caution.
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Dessert is always a good idea and this scoop of Black Sesame (P180) from Gelato Manila is a winner. It’s drizzled with honey and garnished with black sesame seeds and chocolate wafer stick. The gelato is good on its own actually—no need for the honey, but those with sweet tooth might just appreciate it. The wafer stick offered a nice crunch over the smooth and creamy gelato.
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Pro tip: Take advantage of Tokugawa’s ongoing all-day promo. Get the Beer Crew (P990) that comes with four Sapporo draft beers, an order of chicken karaage, and a serving of Tokufries. Another option is the Highball Crew (P1,200) that comes with four Jim Beam Highballs, an order of chicken karaage, plus a serving of Tokufries. Happy hour doesn’t stop in Tokugawa. Kanpai!
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